If you’re here, you’ve probably got a handful of laser-cut standees lying around—maybe they’ve been sitting in your back storage bin for a trade show that got canceled, or they’ve been up in a busy store window collecting dust, or even stuck in a corner of your office where coffee splatters and random knocks are par for the course. As someone who’s been supplying laser-cut standees for over 8 years now, I’ve seen every weird, gross mark you can get on these things: fingerprints from clumsy setup crews, tiny coffee drips, even that weird orange gunk from someone’s old snack that spilled on a floor display. Laser-cut Standees
Here’s the thing: laser-cut standees aren’t your average poster or cardboard sign. They’re usually made from thin, durable stuff—birch plywood, acrylic, MDF, or sometimes even thick cardstock for smaller tabletop ones—and the laser cutting process leaves super sharp edges and a little bit of that light “kerf dust” (the fine, powdery leftover from cutting) that sticks to the surface way more than regular debris. If you’ve ever tried wiping one down with a random paper towel and window cleaner, you probably noticed it leaves streaks, scratches, or even melts the acrylic. Trust me, I’ve gotten a handful of frantic calls from clients doing exactly that.
Today I’m breaking down how to clean your standees the right way, broken down by material (since that’s the biggest mistake people make—using the same cleaner for acrylic and plywood), plus a few pro tips from the shop floor that no one tells you.
First, let’s start with the prep stuff you should never skip. Before you grab any cloth or cleaner, do a quick visual check. Run your clean finger along the edges of the standee (not the decorated face, obvi) and see if that kerf dust is still there. If it is, blow it off first—like, with a can of compressed air (the kind you use for keyboards, not the random dust-off spray that leaves a weird chemical film) or even a soft, dry makeup brush if you don’t have air. Wiping kerf dust off with a cloth is like rubbing sandpaper on your standee—tiny, invisible scratches that make it look dull forever. I always tell my team to do this before any cleanup, even for brand-new standees that just came off the cutting table. For super dusty ones that’ve been outside, you can even give ’em a very gentle rinse with lukewarm tap water first, then pat dry before moving on.
Now, here’s the big split by material—this is non-negotiable, guys. Mess this up, and you’re ruining a standee you could’ve sold or reused.
Acrylic Standees are the most popular for high-traffic displays, because they’re lightweight and shatter-resistant (well, sort of). But acrylic is super sensitive to harsh chemicals. Windex, rubbing alcohol, bleach, even some dish soaps will leave clouding streaks or etch the surface over time. The go-to for acrylic? Plain old warm water and a microfiber cloth. Microfiber is key here—it’s lint-free and super soft, so it won’t scratch. If there’s a stubborn fingerprint or coffee spot that plain water won’t lift, mix a tiny drop of mild, fragrance-free dish soap (like Dawn original, not the one with lemon or antibacterial stuff) into a cup of warm water. Dip your microfiber cloth in the soapy water, wring it out completely (no dripping!), and gently rub the spot in circular motions. Then wipe clean with a separate damp microfiber cloth, and immediately buff dry with a third dry microfiber cloth to get rid of any water spots. If you’ve got a really old acrylic standee that’s got permanent clouding from wrong cleaners, there are specialized acrylic polishers, but I’d save those for pieces you care about—for everyday standees, warm water works fine. Pro tip from my shop: never use paper towels on acrylic. The wood pulp in them leaves tiny scratches that add up, and even the “lint-free” ones have little bits that stick.
Next up, Plywood & MDF Standees. These are the ones we make for custom event displays, rustic signs, or smaller counter standees. The problem here is that wood is porous—so if you use too much water, it’ll warp, or leave rings, or even make the printed design peel off. For plywood/MDF, stick to dry cleaning first: that same compressed air or soft brush to get rid of surface dust, and if there are smudges, a dry magic eraser (the original Mr. Clean kind, not the generic ones) works wonders. Magic erasers are super mild abrasives that lift grime without scratching wood. If you need a little more oomph, you can use a very slightly damp microfiber cloth—like, wring it out so hard it’s almost dry—and a tiny bit of that same mild dish soap. Never soak the wood, and always wipe in the direction of the grain, not against it, to avoid streaks. And for the love of all that’s holy, no water-based cleaners like Windex on wood—they’ll soak into the pores and leave that fuzzy, raised grain look that makes the standee look old before its time. If your plywood standee has a clear coat (most of ours do, to protect the design), you can be a little more loose, but still keep moisture low.
Then there’s Cardstock & Foam Core Standees. These are the lightweight ones for short-term use—like a pop-up shop display or a school event. These are the easiest to mess up because they’re so thin and absorbent. For these, only use dry cleaning: that compressed air, soft brush, and if there’s a tiny smudge, a piece of stale white bread. Wait, hear me out—stale bread has a mild, sticky texture that lifts smudges without leaving residue, and it’s way gentler than a cloth. Fresh bread is too crumbly, so leave it out on the counter for an hour first. Never use water, soap, or anything wet on these—they’ll dissolve the paper or make the foam core warp beyond repair. We once had a customer who tried wiping a cardstock standee with a wet cloth after a rainstorm, and it turned into a crinkly mess that was impossible to fix. Don’t do that.
Now, what about those weird, specific stains that pop up? Let’s cover the ones I get asked about most. Coffee and soda spills: on acrylic, use that soapy water and a light rub. On wood, dab it with a barely damp cloth, then immediately buff with a dry one. On cardstock, if it’s super new, you can try a tiny bit of white eraser (the pencil kind, not the big magic eraser) on the stain, just don’t rub too hard or you’ll peel the paper. Fingerprints: acrylic gets them a lot, so a quick wipe with a dry microfiber cloth every few days keeps them gone. For wood and cardstock, same as above—dry cloth or soft brush, no liquids. Scuff marks: on acrylic, if the magic eraser doesn’t work, you can use a tiny bit of toothpaste (non-gel, non-whitening) and rub gently, then rinse with water. On wood, magic eraser works, but test it on a tiny, hidden spot first—some custom wood finishes are more sensitive than others. On cardstock, again, white pencil eraser is your best bet.
One last thing: maintenance. Don’t wait until your standee is covered in gunk to clean it. Every 2-4 weeks, give it a quick wipe-down with a dry microfiber cloth, especially if it’s been in a high-traffic area or near a window. That way, dust and smudges don’t build up into permanent marks. Also, if you’re storing standees, keep them in a cool, dry place—don’t lean them in a damp basement or a hot garage, because moisture can warp wood, make acrylic turn cloudy, and make printed designs fade way faster. We always tell our clients to store custom standees flat or upright in a sturdy box, not stacked on top of each other where they can get scratched.
At the end of the day, cleaning laser-cut standees is way simpler than it sounds—just match your cleaner to the material, don’t use too much liquid, and skip the harsh stuff. If you’re getting custom standees made for your business, trade show, or event, we test every cleaning method on small samples first to make sure the design and material hold up, because we know how important these displays are. Whether you need a batch of small tabletop standees for your retail space, a big floor display for a product launch, or custom cut acrylic signs for your office, we can help you get exactly what you need. Reach out to our team to chat about your project—we’re here to make sure your standees look good, last, and are easy to clean too.
Epoxy Resin Keychains References:
- “Proper Care and Cleaning of Laser-Cut Wood and Acrylic Displays” – Industrial Laser Cutting Association, 2022
- “Guide to Cleaning and Maintaining Point-of-Purchase Displays” – Print and Graphics Scholarship Foundation, 2021
- “Non-Abrasive Cleaning Methods for Porous and Non-Porous Display Materials” – Journal of Display Technology, Vol. 18, No. 7, 2022
Wenzhou Qumange Craft Co., Ltd.
With abundant experience, we are one of the most professional laser-cut standees manufacturers in China. Welcome to wholesale bulk customized laser-cut standees at competitive price from our factory. If you have any enquiry about pricelist and free sample, please feel free to email us.
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